Proof that the undercoat is versatile – Part 1

Last summer, making two new windows – left and right – to go each side of the existing image of Saint Chad in the middle (which was made some 30 years ago):

Stained glass design: new windows left and right
Sketch design for two new stained-glass windows (left and right)

For those two new windows, left and right, someone might think to simply use unpainted glass.

But this wouldn’t really work, because the light would be uneven.

Horribly uneven …

Direct sunlight would pour through those new windows on the left and right, but be changed and softened by the painting in the middle window:

  • The three windows wouldn’t balance.
  • They wouldn’t work together.
  • The outside pair would fight the saint.

This means you have to find a different way.

A way which brings the two new windows into harmony with the one which got there first.

The way we chose – and you might choose another – the way which we judged fitted with the painting on the middle window and also with the quantity of light within the church was:

To apply an undercoat / wash of paint to every individual piece of coloured glass.

And then, when the paint was dry, to adjust it, and thus prevent monotony:

  1. Either by gently rubbing dried paint away in places. We did this with our naked hands. Just rubbing it. Lightly. Until it shifted. Because gently changing depths of colour are pleasing to the human eye.
  2. Or by using stencils to remove particular shapes through which the naked light would pour (though never so strongly as to fight the saint).

Stencils – cut from suitable material.

We already had several metal stencils from a project ages, ages old:

Metal stencils
Metal stencils

David also made new stencils using cardboard and a scalpel:

Cardboard stencils (left)

So you:

  1. Apply the undercoat.
  2. Let it dry.
  3. Put the stencil on top.
  4. Then use a brush to rub away the shape.
  5. And use your hand to shade the paint and highlight.
How to stencil stained glass
Undercoat / wash with stencil decorations

Oh but it’s never as straight-forward as that when you’re matching light with an existing window!

So we had to do it once, fire the glass, see how it looked, then – in important places – do it all again, and fire the glass a second time, so that the windows looked good in their own right, and so they also balanced with the saint.

Now it’s the second layer I’ll show you in a moment.

The technique is just the same as for the first layer.

But I’ll explain it first, because then the film will make more sense.

First, you apply a wash of paint to clean the fired glass – somehow, firing always leaves glass “greasy”:

Clean the fired glass

And remember, this is the second layer: the glass already has a thin stencilled (and fired) undercoat on it. That’s the paint you see already.

Second, apply the undercoat / wash of paint:

Apply the undercoat / wash

Next, because variety is wonderful, David takes a smaller hake and paints shadows round the edges:

Shade the edges

And blends the light and dark paint together:

And blend

When the paint is dry, David puts a stencil on the glass – aligning it with the paint / highlight from the first firing – and, with a stiff brush, removes the unfired paint:

Use the stencil

Here he wears a mask because the dust went upwards to where he’s looking down on the light box.

Finally he uses his hand to shade the paint and stencilled shape.

And that’s it – a decorated undercoat.

Strong enough to soften the passing light and blend the outside windows with the one inside:

Ready for a second firing

So that’s one way to cut a stained-glass stencil: you do it on the light box.

But some of you will also like to see a different way of working.

On an easel:

Working upright

With beeswax or plasticine (children’s modelling dough), you attach each piece of glass to a large, upright sheet of toughened glass.

Upright, you can see the whole window against natural light.

So in the film you see the whole process twice:

  1. The first time on a light box.
  2. The second time upright on an easel: cleaning, undercoat, shadow, blend, and stencil (Here, David should have worn his mask but didn’t).

Now when you take our foundation course Illuminate, I know some students expect to jump straight into tracing “because tracing is exciting – it’s where the action is”.

But in fact we start with the undercoat (or “wash”), and practise it for a week – yes, a whole week – then every week thereafter you practise it some more.

You see, the undercoat is not just a wonderful surface on which to trace and flood (which Illuminate explains in later weeks).

Thus the undercoat – just by itself, when you shade or stencil it – is a lovely way to decorate your coloured glass.

Here’s the top-section of the right-hand window, still in our studio, after it was leaded:

How to stencil a stained-glass window
After leading etc.

That’s why, inside Illuminate, students learn so much about the undercoat / wash:

  • Because it very, very useful.

And now for the film. The first time horizontal on a light box. The second time upright on an easel.

Since you know the process, I’ll only speak from time to time:

P.S. Here’s glass from the same windows with highlights which you can make with a lice comb – yes, I do mean the kind of metal comb which parents sometimes need to use to remove lice from their toddlers’ hair.

How to stencil stained glass
Undercoat with highlights cut by lice comb, then shaded by hand

I’m sure you’ll invent your own techniques.

Have a question? Ask it here!

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Samantha Calder -

I love the subtleness of the paint using this effect! This has my mind churning with all sorts of ideas where this application could work. Thank you for sharing this technique.

Ann Walker -

Hello Both and a very Happy New Year to you and yours.

Another (dare I say!) illuminating video - thank you so much. I pounce on the new ones with relish, but still watch previous ones over and over and learn more from them every time. It's certainly a great idea to make use of the background wash to create yet another design element.

Just one question - would there be any advantage in applying a heavier wash in the first place so the operation could be completed in one firing, or were two firings your plan from the outset?
Many thanks,
Ann

SM Byrne -

Great question. One of those situations where, if we’d felt confident we could judge it right, one darker wash would have been sufficient. So if we used this technique more often (simply painting with a decorated undercoat as opposed to tracing, flooding, shading etc. as we nearly always do), we’d probably have accumulated the experience to get it right first time. As it was, we didn’t know enough to take that risk. Hence we did it in two firings.

Ann Walker -

Thanks for that very honest reply Stephen! It's reassuring to know that even painters with your expertise are uncertain sometimes. Gives me great hope for my own uncertainties!!

SM Byrne -

We’re often uncertain - I’m glad to have the opportunity to make this clear. Here, we felt confident from small tests beforehand that this method would be appropriate. The problem however with small tests is they don’t usually scale up in a linear fashion: so we knew we didn’t know how dark the undercoat would need to be until we reached the point when we could see so with our eyes. If we’d gone too dark to start with, imagine all the re-cutting and re-painting we’d have had to do. That’s why we decided, better to ”re-paint” (by painting a second wash) than having also to re-cut the glass. In the midst of uncertainty, we could find a principal we were certain about. And that is how it often goes.

Christina Alvner -

Great video about using stencils, and great tip about the lice comb. I have ordered some online today, really liked the effect :-)

SM Byrne -

I’m glad you see how lovely it can be. You can for instance have an undercoat which goes from light to dark. And then your lice-combed highlights can go from thick to thin (so they tail off at one end). And then you shade it by hand. So you can achieve so much variety. And you might even trace on top of it ...

Janet -

I love the subtle effect and will have a go at this. I am a bit puzzled by the undercoat going direct on the leaded window - doesn't it have to be fired?

Janet -

Oh, I see! I missed a bit, it isn't a finished window, just taped to a glass! Then fired. Sorry, so easy to misunderstand when in a rush. Yes, brilliant, will do that.

SM Byrne -

That’s it - not finished, but fastened with black plasticine so we can see it upright against daylight. As for the technique - it’s worth trying, it’s worth rehearsing and getting a feel for it with your own eyes and hands. Then, one day, a situation may arise when you think: “This could work here!”

Tom -

Absolutly gorgeous! I appreciate you sharing your toolbox of techniques with us as it improves the quality of work everywhere. Many, many thanks.

Jane -

Always interesting to read about your methods. Thank you. Looking forward to experimenting.

Ann Linforth -

Thanks for sharing this fascinating technique. It gives the subtle effect of sandblasted or etched glass. I was wondering what colour did you use for the wash? And do you use the same colour wash over the entire window? Looking forward to hearing from you.

David Williams -

It's Umber Brown Sepia, by Reusche. It's a lovely, gentle paint. It's also wonderful for copy-tracing because you can make such light and delicate lines with it: so, when you strengthen with a different paint (such as Reusche's Tracing Black), those copy-traced lines, if they still show, seem like very faint pencil lines - and part of the composition.

And yes, in this case, we stayed with Umber Brown Sepia for everything.

Frances Ford -

A big thank you for sharing your techniques, they are invaluable.

Beatriz Lauer -

Hello Stephen and David,
I loved the video. Never thought of that and now this opens many possibilities.
Did you use glycol or just water to mix the paint?
I bought your book on Amazon and I am also reading it on Kindle. So many details to remember!
The book will probably arrive next week.
Thanks again,
Beatriz

David Williams -

Hello Beatriz,
Just water (and glass paint and gum arabic) - both times.
Thank you for buying the book! I hope you also like the 12 online videos which come with it.
Best wishes,
David

Sylvie Savoie -

Bonjour à vous deux, quelle équipe formidable vous faites. Encore MERCI pour cette technique. Notre seule limite est notre imagination. Je prépare une exposition pour début Mars et cela m’a inspiré énormément. Pour ma part, je suis une admiratrice inconditionnelle de votre travail. BRAVO !!!

SM Byrne -

We wish you all the best with your exhibition: if you can send some photos when it opens, we'd love to see them.

Flora Jamieson -

Great video and a lovely effect - I have never tried using stencils to remove paint. I wondered - when you place the metal stencil on top of the unfired paint, does it not scratch it up a little? I guess on the second wash that's not so much of an issue as the paint clings better to the fired paint underneath, but if you were just doing it in one go, might it be a problem? Thanks!

SM Byrne -

With enough gum arabic in your paint so that, after stencilling, you can shade / soften the highlights by hand, you'll find the wash is strong enough to have the stencil placed carefully on top of it with little risk. So, as always, the thing to do first is, test the wash with a simple highlight, to make sure there's sufficient "fight" in it that, when you rub it gently to soften / shade it, the paint doesn't simply lift off with the lightest, slightest touch. And of course, as your paint gets darker (as when you're doing it in one go, as opposed to the two which we did) then automatically there'll be more gum.

Marianne -

Thank you so much, Stephen and David, it's gorgeous as always !
I sometimes use old radiography images to make stencils. It's strong, thin, easy to cut precisely and reusable for the next 100 years.
P.S. I too am looking forward to receiving your book !

SM Byrne -

Marianne, thank you - that’s an excellent tip. And it made me think that if someone can’t lay their hands on old radiography images, maybe the kind of plastic sheet which offices use for overhead projectors - maybe that will also work. Thank you again for sharing your own experience here.

Jim Murphy -

I add my praise to all the others who have written. This is a marvelous addition to our repertoire of techniques and disciplines you have shared with us. You are true teachers. Thank you.

Stephen Byrne -

Thank you, Jim. It's such a lift for us when we get to see what you and others - through patience, practise and hard work - achieve.

john kilpatrick -

Thanks for the great lesson
Do you use a special dust mask or would a cheap one do
Happy new year
John

Stephen Byrne -

Hi John,
Thank you - and we wish you a wonderful year this year.
It's best to get a good mask - fine enough mesh to catch that cloud of paint dust.
Best,
Stephen

Mandy Lam-Hing -

Hello Stephen and David
Happy New Year to you both and your lovely little dog - has he stopped chewing?? Very many thanks for all your wonderful, illuminating, informative sharing of knowledge. I am in awe of you both. Have ordered your book by Amazon and can't wait for it to arrive. Have also requested information on when your next "ILLUMINATE" class has spaces so I can join online.
Stephen, your ability to personalise each video is remarkable - it is as if I'm in one-to-one private tuition. Again, very many thanks.

Stephen Byrne -

He still chews ... but I've bought him some antler horn and also some hide: the legs to our studio benches are therefore out of danger!

Thank you for your kind comment about how the videos come over: that's how I want it to be - as if we're talking face-to-face - so I'm glad to know that's also how it feels. We do enjoy the engagement - here on the blog and through emails, I mean (less so on Facebook, however, because does my head in).

See you inside Illuminate when it starts again. (This term has been very busy with lots of great questions: mixing great paint and getting familiar with the undercoat - these are such important fundamentals on which so much else depends.)

Mandy -

Thanks Stephen. I'll look forward to joining you on the course.

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